Turning down Slaters wheels

Simon Dunkley shows us how

To machine a set of wheels, it is merely a matter of following the same process for each wheel. Set the compound slide to an angle of 3 degrees, to match the prototype's 1 in 20 coning. Mount a wheel on the mandrel, and clamp as per the photo. I was reducing the diameter by about .056", but don't have indexable dials. I therefore played around moving the saddle and cross slide until I reached the point where the tool would cut the tyre and reach the flange at the desired diameter with the cross slide dial on zero. This wasn't essential, but it helped. Once you have done this, don't move the saddle - lock it to the bed if you wish! (I had previously blackened this wheel as an experiment - it all got turned off during the next stages!) stage one of turning

The cross slide was then wound back a bit, and similarly the compound slide. Light cuts were then taken off the wheel tyre, but leaving about .010" on the tyre above the desired final diameter. The flange was then reduced to its final diameter (tyre diameter plus .036") but with square ends.

The rounding of the flange was done with a file. Ideally, this would be with a form tool, but I was trying this out, and it seemed to work. I used a bastard file to get a rough shape (make sure you have a file handle and also hold both ends of the file when doing this) and finished off with a fine needle file, with the same safety provisos. Finally, the tyre was reduced to the correct diameter, and once the tool had reached the flange, it was pulled back.
Loosen a clamping screw, and turn the clamping strip through 90 degrees. Tighten, and do the same for the others, one by one. You have now mounted the wheel ready for reducing the width. In theory, you need to take .020" off the face of the wheel, but if you do this, you will take the front of the tyre off and reveal the plastic underneath, so the rim could fall off. Mine didn't, but take light cuts. As a final operation, put a 45 degree chamfer on the edge of the tyre using a file, and polish the wheel tyre with some "Scotchbright" or similar. The wheel is done, so move onto the next one!
All in all, it takes me just over half an hour to do a set of wheels for one wagon. Is it worth it? Well, I will close with a photo of the wheels on a nearly finished wagon, and let you be the judge.
 
 

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